Optimal board tuning is unique for every rider, and it will also change according to the conditions. It is recommended that you read the guidelines given below and then choose your personal settings. The most common problems are caused by rigging your new board based on your experience from a previous board. All boards have their own insert positions (for mast/fin boxes and foot straps) that suit their different shapes and features. If in doubt, it is recommended to start in the middle and move backward or forward from there.
The “pressure valve” or “vent plug” located at the front of the mast box compensates for the difference in air pressure inside and outside the board, mostly caused by temperature and altitude changes.
OPEN THE VALVE OR PRESSURE SCREW FOR AIRPLANE TRANSPORT OR TRAVEL TO HIGH ALTITUDES. CLOSE THE VALVE FOR SAILING TO AVOID WATER INTAKE. STORE THE BOARD IN A COOL, DRY PLACE, NEVER INSIDE A CAR ON A HOT DAY OR IN A BOARD BAG WITHOUT PROPER HEAT REFLECTION. NEVER USE A SCREW GUN OR OVERTIGHTHEN THE VENT PLUG, THE RUBBER WASHER OR THE INNER PLASTIC THREAD COULD BREAK CAUSING A POSSIBLE LEAK.
The first time you sail a board, place the mast foot in the center of the box. Once you are familiar with the board, you can try moving the mast 3 or 4 cm backward or forward to see if that helps you sail the way you want to.
Moving the mast foot forward will make you trim your board lower on the nose and higher on the tail. If you are finding it difficult to plane, or if you are trying to maximize the range of your board with a bigger sail size, this option might help (if it’s not overdone). Once you are planning with your feet in the foot straps, you will feel as if you are using a longer board. This is because the wetted surface area of your board, including the rails, has increased toward the nose. Another result you will notice is the ability to make longer turns with more consistent speed throughout, which is needed for side/offshore wave sailing conditions. In brief: Moving the mast foot forward helps you achieve early planning and longer, more stable turns.
Moving the mast foot back will make you trim the board higher on the nose and will reduce your wetted surface area, giving you the feeling that you are riding a smaller board. This makes it easier to lift the board out of the water for air freestyle moves, and it allows you to get more vertical while jumping and wave riding. This mast position is ideal for side/onshore wave sailing conditions. In brief: Moving the mast foot back helps you achieve a lively feeling and tight turns with a quick response.
We recommend using the fins we provide with your board, as each board comes with the fins designed to make it perform best for the broadest range of sail sizes, riders, and conditions.
US Box:
Insert the screw plate and fin into the US fin box at the bottom of the tail and secure the fin with the fin screw firmly in place. DO NOT USE AN ELECTRIC SCREWDRIVER.
Power Box & Tuttle Box:
Insert the shaft or base of the fin into the fin box and tighten the fin screw with the plastic and stainless washers firmly in place. DO NOT USE AN ELECTRIC SCREWDRIVER.
Fin Position:
Start by placing the fin in the center of the box. Then make small, 1-cm changes forward and backward until you find the position that suits you and your conditions.
When the fin is in a more forward position, it is closer to your back foot as you are riding in the foot straps, giving you a quicker response, increasing maneuverability, and helping you make tighter turns. The fin is too far forward for a particular sail, rider, or set of conditions when the board spins out or you find you do not have enough fin power, making it harder to plane or compromising your upwind ability.
When the fin is further back from your back foot as you are riding, it feels like a bigger fin, giving you more power, helping you plane faster, and adding drive and projection to your turns. The fin is too far back for a particular sail, rider, or set of conditions when the board is hard to turn and makes longer turns than you want it to.
Bigger Fin vs. Smaller Fin:
A bigger fin will make your ride more powerful, with more planning and upwind ability. It will also allow you to use a bigger sail. A smaller fin will let you ride faster and will allow you to make tighter turns.
Stiffer Fin vs. Softer Fin:
A stiffer fin may go faster but could create spin-outs, as the fin may not release pressure, inhibiting equal water flow on both sides of the fin. A softer fin may allow you to make tight turns without a bounce or spin-out, but a fin that is too soft may lose your speed and forward drive in your turns.
Important: Use only the screws and washers provided with your board. Incorrect screws can damage the inserts or break the water seal.
First-Time Installation:
• Inserts are blank (unthreaded) on first use.
• Ensure the screw and insert hole are clean and free of sand.
• Assemble straps with plastic tooth washers facing up and drop pin aligned.
• Adjust asymmetrical metal washers to fine-tune the footstrap width.
• Tighten by hand using a #3 screwdriver until snug (do not overtighten).
• Expect to retighten after the first session as the strap/pad compresses.
• Never use an electric tool without a clutch.
Positioning & Adjustment:
• Velcro openings face the tail.
• Front Strap: Forward for better front access (heavier riders). Back for more tail power (lighter riders).
• Back Strap: Forward for support and longer turns. Back for tighter turns.
• Inner vs Outer Holes: Inner for waves/freestyle. Outer for rail control, freewave/freeride.
• Stance: Closer together= upright rider position. Wider = allowing for more radical weight shifts.
• Note: Bigger straps offer more control and an easier exit.
• Beginner/Intermediate: Use furthest forward + innermost positions.
Changing Straps, Screws or washers:
• Clean the area and inserts before reinstalling.
• When replacing bent screws, make sure the new one shares the same thread. Turn the screw counterclockwise until it drops into the previous thread.
• Check and retighten regularly — loose screws bend more easily and can damage threads.
• Stripped Thread Fix: Use a slightly thicker screw (do not force). Go back and forth if needed. If you can’t find a thicker screw, a temporary fix is to pack the stripped hole with toothpicks, tighten it, and add water to let the wood expand.
Always make sure your air pressure valve is closed before you go out sailing.
Re-tune your settings after you use your equipment for the first time, as materials will stretch and lose their fit slightly. Screws might get looser.
Re-check your foot strap screws, fin screw, and mast foot before you go out sailing. Make sure they are tightly fastened.
Make sure there is no sand in your fin boxes before you insert the fin.
Rig downwind of people, children, cars, etc.
Attach the board to the sail as soon as the mast and sail are assembled—because it is easy to lose control of an assembled sail or detached board.
Only go out riding on conditions and as far out offshore as you would normally feel comfortable swimming back, understanding the currents, tides, and weather forecast.
Before you leave the shore, look over all of your equipment, making sure everything is tightened and ready to go PLAY.
Avoid rigging your board on rough surfaces such as asphalt or concrete, and avoid objects that can dent, scratch, or puncture your board or fin.
Make sure your board is sealed before going in the water.
When you are not sailing, place your board in the shade. The Sun breaks down all the components and finishes.
Never leave your board at the beach with sand blowing across it.
Check your board regularly for holes or damage.
Store your board free of sand and dirt, in a cool, dry place.
NEVER LEAVE YOUR BOARD INSIDE A CAR ON A HOT DAY OR IN A BOARD BAG WITHOUT PROPER HEAT REFLECTION.
We reserve the right to make changes at any time without notice.
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